Skip to main content

A Trek in the Himalayas

Maggie and I on the way to Hemkund


Trekking in the Garhwal Himalayas is both fun and adventure. Thanks to the school in Delhi where I taught for a considerable period of my life, I got opportunities to climb many a peak in the Himalayas along with groups of young students. The best was the Hemkund trek.

Hemkund is a glacial lake that lies about 15,000 feet (4572 metres) above sea level in the Himalayas. It’s a Sikh pilgrimage centre dedicated to the tenth Guru, Gobind Singh (1666-1708). There is a gurudwara on the bank of the lake. It is a two-day trek for ordinary folk who are not professional trekkers in the mountains. You climb about three-fourth of the total distance on day one. The trek starts from Joshimath, the place that was in news two years ago because of the catastrophic floods and landslides that wreaked unprecedented havoc in the mountains.

Joshimath itself is at an altitude of 6150 feet (1875 metres). Our bus carried us up to Joshimath from where we started the trek early in the morning. You keep climbing. And climbing. The whole day. With a backpack that carries the most essential things including your lunch and drinking water.

Joshimath was nothing more than a nondescript hill town in those days. It was twenty years ago that we undertook this adventure along with a fairly large group of students from the seniormost section. I don’t know how Joshimath would look like today. It must have lost all the pristine charm it possessed in those days when we visited it. A lot of buildings came up there later. Too much development which the fragile ecosystem of the Himalayas could not endure.

The Himalayas are the youngest mountain ranges in the world. Please recall your history lesson about how Gondwana shifted from the south pole a few million years ago to hit the northern continent forming the mountain ranges that we call the Himalayas today. These mountains seem to be yet to stabilise. They are highly prone to erosion even now, millions of years after their formation.

The cloudbursts of Feb 2021 wreaked untold havoc in Joshimath and nearby areas. Let me reproduce an image from Down to Earth to give you a picture of the damage caused by the rains then. 

It was not just the rains. A glacier had broken off along with its bedrock at around 5600 m above sea level from the Ronti mountain peak, causing flood and landslides in the Rishiganga and Dhauliganga rivers. The rivers changed their paths. Hundreds of houses were washed away in the swirling waters. Development extracts too heavy prices sometimes.

Twenty years ago, so much development hadn’t reached the mountains. There were rains in those days too. In fact, it was raining the whole afternoon of our trek. We all got drenched thoroughly. We shivered beneath the plastic raincoats that we bought on the way from peddlers who knew about the unpredictability of the rains in the mountains and hence did brisk business as soon as it started raining. Our shoes squelched. But climb, we did. When we reached the destination of day one, we were utterly fatigued. But we knew there was one more day to go. The steepest ascent was just waiting. The final stretch to Hemkund was really tough. But it is that arduousness which makes a trek charming and unforgettable.

This was the first trek of our life, both Maggie’s and mine. The first of such magnitude. Later, we climbed a few other peaks in the Himalayas like Gaumukh and so on. But none of them has left as many indelible imprints in our memories as Hemkund.  

Today Joshimath, the base camp of that classical trek, is sinking at the rate of 6.5 cm every year. Many buildings have been abandoned. Many are in ruins. I don’t think I would like to see the place now. Let my heart carry better memories. Of a little hill town and its cool rivers of Alaknanda and Bhagirathi, the two rivers that unite at Devaprayag forming the Ganga. I still remember watching that confluence, with one river looking reddish with its muddy waters and the other crystal clear, until they merge seamlessly into one and flow on and on quite as a symbol of all the good and the bad that make up humanity. 

Maggie with a fellow trekker in front of the Badrinath Temple

PS. Written for Indispire Edition 456: An unforgettable journey #UnforgettableJourney

 

Comments

  1. Hari Om
    Good to hold onto those first impression memories, for changes are inevitable. Whether by nature or by mankind's encroachment. YAM xx

    ReplyDelete
  2. Lucky you went there at the time when it was pristine and could make pleasant memories,

    ReplyDelete
  3. I want to use this opportunity to Thank Dr Aziegbe a Powerful Spell Caster for what he has done for me and for Helping me to get my EX Back with his Love Spell, At First I Thought it's not Going to work until I have Faith in it and it Tell's me that it's Guarantee and Truly I have seen it. Thanks again PaPa I We Advice you People who need Love Spell to contract Dr Aziegbe a Powerful Spell Caster now contact him on WhatsApp +2349035465208 and also email: DRAZIEGBE1SPELLHOME@GMAIL.COM
    https://www.facebook.com/GRANDPA.AZIEGBE/

    ReplyDelete
  4. Sad what's happening to the environment everywhere. I especially loved that line of the two rivers merging. "symbol of all the good and the bad that make up humanity" So apt.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I was told that one of those rivers - I forget which - is always muddy and the other clear. Quite a sight it was then. Wonder whether that has changed now.

      Delete
  5. Joey Vimsante PoetJuly 10, 2025 at 8:43 PM

    It must be amazing to go to the Himalyas. I have only climbed Ben Nevis, Snowdon, Scaffel Pike and a few other smaller mountains.

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

The Adventures of Toto as a comic strip

  'The Adventures of Toto' is an amusing story by Ruskin Bond. It is prescribed as a lesson in CBSE's English course for class 9. Maggie asked her students to do a project on some of the lessons and Femi George's work is what I would like to present here. Femi converted the story into a beautiful comic strip. Her work will speak for itself and let me present it below.  Femi George Student of Carmel Public School, Vazhakulam, Kerala Similar post: The Little Girl

The Little Girl

The Little Girl is a short story by Katherine Mansfield given in the class 9 English course of NCERT. Maggie gave an assignment to her students based on the story and one of her students, Athena Baby Sabu, presented a brilliant job. She converted the story into a delightful comic strip. Mansfield tells the story of Kezia who is the eponymous little girl. Kezia is scared of her father who wields a lot of control on the entire family. She is punished severely for an unwitting mistake which makes her even more scared of her father. Her grandmother is fond of her and is her emotional succour. The grandmother is away from home one day with Kezia's mother who is hospitalised. Kezia gets her usual nightmare and is terrified. There is no one at home to console her except her father from whom she does not expect any consolation. But the father rises to the occasion and lets the little girl sleep beside him that night. She rests her head on her father's chest and can feel his heart...

Are You Sane?

Illustration by Gemini AI A few months back, a clinical psychiatrist asked me whether anyone in my family ever suffered from insanity. “All of us are insane to some degree,” I wanted to tell her. But I didn’t because there was another family member with me. We had taken a youngster of the family for counselling. I had forgotten the above episode until something happened the other day which led me to write last post . The incident that prompted me to write that post brought down an elder of my family from the pedestal on which I had placed him simply because he is a very devout religious person who prays a lot and moves about in the society like the gentlest soul that ever lived in these not-so-gentle terrains. I also think that the severe flu which descended on me that night was partly a product of my disillusionment. The realisation that one’s religion and devotion that guided one for seven decades hadn’t touched one’s heart even a little bit was a rude shock to me. What does re...

Florentino’s Many Loves

Florentino Ariza has had 622 serious relationships (combo pack with sex) apart from numerous fleeting liaisons before he is able to embrace the only woman whom he loved with all his heart and soul. And that embrace happens “after a long and troubled love affair” that lasted 51 years, 9 months, and 4 days. Florentino is in his late 70s when he is able to behold, and hold as well, the very body of his beloved Fermina, who is just a few years younger than him. She now stands before him with her wrinkled shoulders, sagged breasts, and flabby skin that is as pale and cold as a frog’s. It is the culmination of a long, very long, wait as far as Florentino is concerned, the end of his passionate quest for his holy grail. “I’ve remained a virgin for you,” he says. All those 622 and more women whose details filled the 25 diaries that he kept writing with meticulous devotion have now vanished into thin air. They mean nothing now that he has reached where he longed to reach all his life. The...

To an Old Friend

Image by Copilot Designer Dear S, I don’t know if you’d even remember me after all these decades, but I find myself writing to you as if it were only yesterday that we parted ways. You were one of the few friends I had at school. You may be amused to know that a drawing of yours that you gifted me stayed with me until I left Kerala after school. Half a century later, I still remember that beautiful pencil drawing, the picture of a vallam (Kerala’s canoe) resting on a shore beneath a coconut tree that slanted over a serene river on whose other bank was an undulating hilly landscape. A few birds flew happily in the sky. Though it was all done in pencil, absolutely black and white, my memories of it carry countless colours. I wonder where you are now. A few years later, when I returned to Kerala on holiday, I did visit your village to enquire about you. But the village had changed much and your hut on the hill wasn’t seen anymore. Maybe, you moved on. Maybe, you took up your father’s...