The name Geronimo is fiction just as most names in
this A2Z series are. But Geronimo was real. He was my landlord, the only
landlord I ever had in Shillong. All other house owners were women,
landladies. Khasi men hardly owned anything except the bottle of drink they
carried home at the end of the day. I’m sure the situation is different today.
The change had already started even before I quit Shillong.
Khasis are a hill tribe that follows
matriliny. The mother is the boss at home. The children get the mother’s
surname. The father is almost a nobody at home. In the olden tradition, men had
certain status as they presided over religious and social functions. With the
arrival of Christianity, the priestly and sacerdotal duties were usurped by the
clergy. Now the Khasi men had little role to play at home. American journalist
Thomas Laird described the Khasi land as a place “where women rule and men are
used as breeding bulls.”
Whenever I went in search of an
accommodation, it was a lady who met me. Every house in Shillong belonged to a
lady. The man may at best be seen bringing in a cup of tea or the ritual
offering of kwai for the guest. The house in Mawprem where I stayed for a
couple of years was different, however. There the man of the house was the
master. Along with his wife and two children, he lived upstairs while I
occupied the rooms downstairs. The boy used to come to me for occasional help
with his studies. The girl was seldom seen outside. This was quite the opposite
of the usual Khasi way. But the boy displayed his tribe’s true DNA soon by
leaving his studies. His father didn’t succeed in persuading him to study and
secure a good job in the due course of time. The father was a drunkard himself.
He worked in some government office during the day and came back home in the
evening reeking of cheap whisky.
The Mawprem region of Shillong had
acute water shortage. This prompted me to shift residence to Nongthymmai. When
I told the landlord about my decision to leave his house, his instant reaction
was, “O my God!” I couldn’t understand why my departure should bother him.
Later, I was told by a friend from Shillong that it wasn’t easy to get
nontribal tenants in that area and tribal tenants wouldn’t pay the rent
regularly.
“He refused to supply me with
sufficient water,” I said to justify my decision.
“Where will he bring water from?” My
friend asked. He was staying just a kilometre away in Upper Mawprem. My area
was Lower Mawprem. Both Mawprems were without sufficient water supply. Upper
Mawprem was worse because it had a large Nepali population which the local
government bodies detested.
There was a brutal uprising against
the Nepalis in 1987. The situation was so bad that schools were closed for
months and curfew was imposed on the town for many weeks. I lived in a
vulnerable place where a lot of people were under attack because they were
Nepalis. I saw men being beaten up on the roadsides. I saw people – men, women
and children – being packed like sardines on to a truck and driven away. They
were taken to Guwahati and abandoned there. Go away, you don’t belong here –
that was the message.
“It’s not safe to stay here anymore,”
Geronimo told me one afternoon. He had decided to go away to the place of a
relative in Mawlai, a militant Khasi stronghold. He advised me to leave too.
Where could I go? I had no relatives
in Shillong. There were a couple of friends one of whom invited me to stay in
the hostel of his school until the situation improved. I accepted the offer but
was bored soon and returned to my own residence. The whole area looked deserted
and ghostly when I returned. Geronimo and family hadn’t returned. I lived all
alone in what looked like an abandoned battlefield. Once in a while a police
jeep would come. One of those constables would call me to the vehicle to
enquire whether I was safe. I think the policemen made me feel more unsafe than
the eerie silence that I had got used to.
Every now and then the men of
Shillong would organise an uprising against some ethnic group. Nontribal
Dogs Get Lost and other such slogans appeared on the walls. Schools would
become refugee camps. Central Reserve Police Force (CRPF) personnel would carry
out flag marches every now and then. People like Geronimo would seek and find
safer places to stay. People like me would take the risk and leave themselves
to the mercy of the night’s sweat that would vaporise in the lurid yellow
sunshine of the morning. The so-called revolutionaries went around shouting
slogans, attacking helpless non-Khasis, and dreaming about some utopia where
only one particular kind of people would exist.
Who were these revolutionaries in
reality? Men who were utter failures. Men who couldn’t make use of the
classrooms. As Kynpham Sing Nongkynrih wrote later in his magnum opus, Funeral Nights, the first divisioners in
academics become doctors, engineers and lawyers. The 2nd Divs become
bureaucrats and control the 1st Divs. The 3rd Divs enter
politics, become ministers and control the other two. “The dropouts join the
militants and control all the above!”
Geronimo belonged to the second category. He knew where to hide when danger came in the shape of revolution.
PS. I'm participating in #BlogchatterA2Z
Previous Posts: A, B, C , D, E, F
Tomorrow: Heavendrea
I have been to Meghalaya and Nagaland. Such nice places. But unfortunately the region has seen so much of turmoil.
ReplyDeleteNow we can see a lot of people from Northeast studying or working in other parts of the country. So the situation must be different now. But the charm of the hills must still be there.
DeleteI want to visit Shillong... and North East... someday. beautifully described write up. Keep writing. ATISH (atishhomechowdhury.wordpress.com)
ReplyDeleteDo visit Shillong and other places in Northeast. It's worth the effort.
DeleteHari Om
ReplyDeletePranaams, Tomichan. I'm getting a chance to spend time with blogs this morning and that too with good signal 🤗 Please know I have been much enjoying your themed posts. I feel we really get to know these characters! YAM xx
Glad you're here, Yam. You're one whom I wouldn't want to miss from this space.
DeleteOh, maternal society? Kerala was like that once, right? I read about the clashes between different groups were picturized in Jeyamohan's novel ulogam in Tamil. Other than that I've not been exposed Southeast India. But you bring me Shillong visuals - frame by frame - with A2Z posts.
ReplyDeleteNairs in Kerala practised a kind of matriliny. But now it's not in practice.
DeleteIt won't be easy to change the system in Shillong because of marital problems. If surnames are changed all of a sudden, there will be incest!
Hi Tomichan. I'm from the Northeast (Digboi, Assam to be precise) and Shillong holds many beautiful memories for me. However, growing up, I have heard several stories of the turmoil there from my relatives who now have moved out of Meghalaya. Your post is very gripping.
ReplyDeleteArpita @ https://arpitamisra.blogspot.com/
Hi Arpita,
DeleteGlad to meet you.
Assam too had a lot of turmoil. My bag was checked too many times at Guwahati railway station merely because I had a beard.
I hope NE is much better now though Manipur rises in my consciousness as a huge question mark.
Wow, that area sounds very unstable. It's a wonder you made it out of there in one piece.
ReplyDeleteNow the situation has improved much. Back in my days there, it was brutal...
DeleteLooks like a fire gone though the area.
ReplyDeleteThe image is AI-generated. Shillong isn't as arid, in fact it's a pretty place.
DeleteWow.. I have read books based on the uprisings in the north east. But reading an account of first hand encounter is something else. Thanks for sharing your experience with us.
ReplyDeleteThese are memories that I'd like to forget but they keep resurrecting themselves.
Delete